Author: Joanne Gazarek

VALLONS DES AUFFES, MARSEILLE

We are back in Marseille.  Today’s adventure takes us along the Old Port on Quai Rive-Neuve toward the “Corniche Kennedy”.  This coastal boulevard was originally a path.  It was widened in the mid 1990’s and renamed Corniche Kennedy in homage to the late President John Fitzgerald Kennedy.  At almost 3 kilometers (with a bike path) one can enjoy the beaches, historical monuments, fishermen’s homes and many restaurants with panoramic views of the sea and outlying islands.

The first stop along our route is “Plage des Catalans”, a sandy beach perfect for swimming, soaking some sun or playing volleyball in the sand.  There is also an underwater museum 5 meters deep with statues.  Watching a couple of volleyball games was a good rest stop before continuing our walk to “Vallons des Auffes”. Before reaching our destination, we viewed an imposing 5-meter-high monument in honor of the Army of the Orient 1915-1918.

There isn’t a sandy beach in Vallon but a person could swim at one’s own risk along the rocks discovering caves or just climbing on the rocks.  There are winding stairs leading down to the old port’s village with small colorful houses, restaurants and many Provençal boats called pontus.  The Corniche Kennedy forms a bridge over the entrance to the port of Vallons, spanning 60 meters with 3 71-meter-high arches.  It was a lively village.

The sun was shining, just perfect for this adventure.

CLERMONT FERRAND AND NEVERS

Our journey to the Loire Valley was by train.  Since we prefer direct route connections, we needed to stop and visit three towns before arriving at the cottage we rented in the Loire Valley.  Our first stop was in Nîmes and since we had visited there before we only stayed one night.  Our afternoon there was spent enjoying the tree-lined boulevard and it was carnival time which was fun and then we topped it off with a nice dinner.

The next day we rode the train for 5 hours before reaching Clermont-Ferrand. It was an interesting trip with many landscape changes. We saw acres of grape vines, then the view changed as we climbed up into the forested mountains.  Next, we passed through tunnel, after tunnel, after tunnel traversing the gorges.  Just glad I could not see down into them!  Finally, we came out of the mountains and back to farmland seeing lots of brown (dairy) cows and white (beef) cows. We stayed in a small boutique hotel in the center of the city, so we were able to walk everywhere to see the sites, find some good wine, pastries, chacuterie and also enjoy some fine dining, and we also took a self-guided gourmet walking tour.  The outstanding structure in the city center is the Notre Dame de l’Asomption (The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption) built in the 13th century from black lava stone taken from the nearby volcanoes of 12,000 years ago. The inside of the church was incredibly beautiful.  In fact, the architecture of the city is very different from other villages because that black lava stone is seen in many buildings around the windows, doors and corners of the structures. We also visited Halles, the enclosed market selling all kinds of foods. Jaude Parc is a sweeping square surrounded by stores, restaurants and Saint Pierre des Minimes Basilica.

After three days we hopped back on a train to Nevers.  Our hotel overlooked a pretty park and was located one block from the central plaza, perfect location for walking and viewing the highlights of Nevers.  We walked to the Port du Croux, the only remaining city gate dated from the end of the 14^th century.  It wasn’t only used for defense but also to collect entry taxes on consumer goods.  We passed through the gate and strolled along the Promenade des Remparts.  It was peaceful while strolling by flowering plants. At the end of the walk stood a huge Sequoia tree in front of the Tour (Tower) of Goguin which marked the corner of the medieval wall facing the Loire River.  Back in the city center we admired the Saint-Cyr-Sainte-Julitte Cathedral.  Unfortunately, renovation work prevented us from visiting the interior of the church. The church was the bishopric in the 5^th and 6th centuries built in Renaissance-style and then in the 13^th-16th centuries a Gothic-style church was added on.  That included a 52-meter-high tower surrounded by gargoyles.  Nearby is the Ducal Palace, built in the 15^th century, noted as being one of the first chateaux of the Loire Valley.  The palace housed many Counts and Dukes of Nevers.

LOIRE VALLEY

Now it is time to drive to our destination in the Loire Valley, Azay-le-Rideau. This will be our base from which to explore the chateau, the wine, the food and even the mushroom caves.  The Loire River is the longest in France and the natural boundary between north and south.  We chose to take the non-toll roads to enjoy viewing the countryside.  That took 5 hours, including an hour’s time for lunch, of course that also included the hundreds of roundabouts we navigated.  We were staying on the West side of the Valley at the Gite de la Maison de Jeanne d’Arc in Azay-le-Rideau, a two-floor cottage with an expansive back bordering the Indre River.  It was a restful stop at the end of each day’s sightseeing.

CHINON

The Royale Fortress overlooks the town of Chinon on the Vivienne River.  We followed the “Chinon Walk” along the river and along the cobblestone lanes passing historic sites of Maison Rouge, ancient bookshop, wine tasting caves, statue of Rabelais (great French writer), and museums. We stopped at the Place of General de Gaulle with many restaurants and stores.  This was once the town’s wall separating the town from the river.  We walked further back along Quai Jeanne d’Arc wandering through the largest flea market (brocante), the largest one that we had ever seen, until we came to the statue of Jeanne d’Arc where she dismounted her horse in 1492.   In the center of town we took the elevator to the Royale Fortress for a panoramic view of the countryside, After seeing the fortress we slowly descended back to the river and found a lovely wine store and couldn’t’ resist buying some bottles from the elderly proprietress who so very much liked her Chinon wines.

CHÂTEAU DE VILLANDRY

Château de Villandry is famous for its extensive gardens.    This chateau was the last of the grand Renaissance chateau built on the Loire River.  While walking through the chateau, we admired the beautifully decorated rooms, especially the parquet floors.  Outside we wandered through the 4 types of symmetrical gardens made up of 85,000 plants: herbs, vegetables, flowers, fruit topiary trees, and even a maze.  There were large voracious carp swimming in the moat!

CHÂTEAU DE LANGEAS

Château de Langeas was built in the 15^th century as a defensive fortress but inside it appears as a prince’s residence.  Entering the palace we crossed the draw bridge. Inside there are beautiful hand-carved furnishings, beamed ceilings and floor tiles.  The top floor is a museum with rare, exquisite tapestries.  In the Wedding Hall we watched a reenactment of the wedding uniting Brittany to become a part of France.  Outside there are gardens with a view of the back of the castle and the surrounding countryside.

 

CHÂTEAU DE MINIÈRE – VINEYARD TOUR & WINE TASTING

On our way back to our cottage we stopped at Château de Minifor a vineyard tour and wine tasting.  Our host showed us the difference between the area’s old vines of Cabernet Franc (red wine) that needed to be grown in limestone soil that allowed  their deeper roots better retention of water. The smaller younger vines of Chenin Blanc (white wine) which mature earlier were growing in sandy and gravely soil.  Next to the owner’s house were two huge Sequoia trees in front, that had been received as a gift.  The château can be rented, and we met a couple there that were renting it for a wedding.  We tasted 6 wines, mostly Cabernet Franc and some white wines from the new growths.  All the grapes are in the Bourgueil AOC region.

CHÂTEAU DU CLOS LUCÉ

Château du Clos Lucé is a 15th century palace which became the home of Leonardo da Vinci for the final three years before he died.  King Francois I who resided in Château Royale d’Amboise hired da Vinci as engineer and set him up in his guest house enjoying his company.  A secret tunnel connected the two palaces so they could meet each other.  Da Vinci brought his favorite paintings, including the Mona Lisa, and left Rome at age 65 to enjoy for a better life in the Loire.  Touring the castle we admired the bedchamber and then proceeded to his workshops.  There were different rooms for his diversity of interests ranging from his paintings to his different inventions.  Outside in the park are interactive models of his sketches and inventions.  The three types of bridges he designed can be seen: Archimedes screw for lifting water, a tank, and an aerial screw for figuring helicopter lift.

CHÂTEAU ROYALE D’AMBOISE

Château Royale d’Amboise, also built in the 15^th century was a 10-minute walk downhill from Château du Clos Lucé.  We followed a self-guided tour through the three floors in the palace.  The first stop was Leonardo’s burial place, which followed with the Guard’s walkway, the Drummer’s room, the Great Chamber and the King’s bedroom, which included paintings by da Vinci, and many other chambers.  Outside there is a great park.  Château Amboise was a favored residence for the kings of France during the Revolution.  At the base of the château is a small Caveau of Vignerons serving regional wines and tastings of cheeses and patés. A cool glass of wine on this very hot day helped us to hike back up to Château du Clos Lucé to find our car and head back to Azay-le-Rideau to relax at our cottage and reminisce about our wonderful day.

LE SAUT AUX LOUPS – MUSHROOM CAVES

Le Saut aux Loups are troglodyte caves (dugout limestone caves) once used as dwellings.  Later they became tuffeau (limestone) quarries for export.  When no longer needed the caves were used for cultivation of mushrooms.  It was a little hike up from the parking lot to the caves and to the restaurant.  The restaurant of the same name served foods made with mushrooms, such as mushroom soup and galipettes (mushroom stuffed mushroom caps with crème fraiche and herbs). YUM!  The cellars (caves) have the ideal humidity and temperature for cultivation.  There are 16 rooms on the path for discovering the care and nurturing of the mushrooms, by being raised in planters, in plastic bags, on logs and in straw.  Included are details about care, incubation and pasteurization. Since the 1980’s France is the mushroom capital and shitakes are the most important crop.

CHÂTEAU THOUARS

Château Thouars is our last vineyard for a cellar tour and wine tasting.  Our host (Sebastien) is proud of his award-winning vineyard.  He told us about his family’s history and how he takes all the steps in creating his family’s wines. Sebastien went on to describe the types of soil, the aging process, and the tannins found in his Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc wines.  His narrative is probably the most detailed and understandable description that we have ever heard!  He walked us through the vineyard, took us to the cellar and then to the Château’s tasting terrace.  We tasted a rosè, a sparkling crémant and a dry Chenin Blanc, and then 3 Cabernet Franc wines.   We were delighted to buy some of Sebastien’s wines.

CHÂTEAU DE CHENONCEAU

Château de Chenonceau is an impressive, photographed castle with its arched bridge over the River Cher.  It is often referred to as the “Château of the Ladies” named for the many famous ladies who made improvements to the castle and the gardens.  King Henry II made a gift of the château to his mistress Diane de Poitiers who added the arched bridge.  After the king died his wife, Catherine de Medici, ousted his mistress and added the three stories over the bridge.  This bridge with its enormous length with checkered tile floors was called the Grand Gallery, and many ballroom parties were enjoyed there.  The Grand Gallery also served as a hospital during WWII.  The exquisite bedroom and drawing rooms were in the floors above the gallery.  The kitchen and pantry were in the vaulted cellars and walled with copperware.  A long treelined avenue leads the way to the entrance of the château.  Along the side closest to the château is the Dome Building housing the science room, a wine cave and the Queen’s Apothecary.  Further along is a carriage gallery and a military hospital section followed by flower, vegetable, and herb gardens.  The “Ladies” also added beautiful gardens with fountains. This beautiful château took many hours to explore.

VOUVRAY – WINE CAVE TASTING

Vouvray is a specific region along the Loire River, listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.  Along the river and in the town of the same name are troglodyte dwellings dug out of the limestone cliffs.  Further up the hills are the vines.  The wines in Vouvray are made using only one single grape variety, Chenin Blanc.  The wines produced can be dry, medium dry, sweet and sparkling (pétillant).  Joanne was looking forward to trying a sparkling Vouvray.  We stopped at Château Guadrelle for tastings.  We were served six different bottlings from dry to sweet.  Our host also explained what types of food would match well with each one. The sparkling was a delightful wine and Joanne’s favorite, especially for this hot day after visiting Château Chenonceau.  You can guess what we purchased, but the dry (sec) was also delightful.  Of course you can’t just buy one bottle!

CHÂTEAU D’AZAY-LE-RIDEAU

Château d’Azay-le-Rideau was built on the Indre River.  This is also the name of the village where we were staying.  Gilles Berthelot, the king’s treasurer, re-built this medieval castle in the 16^th century. The château was never a defensive castle, but one built for luxury in Gothic style, also with Italian influences.  It was the first castle not to use spiral staircases in the Loire Valley.  He constructed his stairway in the center of the main building with a straight railed staircase.  The château survived the Revolution and remained intact. Then in the mid-nineteenth century the Marquis of Biencourt, a great collector, reconstructed it in a neo-Renaissance décor with huge fireplaces, patterned wallpaper and painted beamed ceilings.  King Francois I emblem was a salamander.  That emblem is seen on many fireplaces. There is also a pleasant castle park surrounding the château crossed by the Indre River.  A mirror image of the château can be seen as we strolled in the park around the castle.

À BIENTÔT !!

MARSEILLE, FRANCE

When flying into Spain we were required to fill out a health form which is also accepted in other Europe countries.  So, when we flew to Marseille France, we were not required to present any more documentation.  It was a pleasant taxi ride to the center of Marseille even during rush hour.  We stayed at Hotel Carré Vieux Port, one block from the harbor.  We headed out and stopped at a sidewalk bar for a glass of Pastis and then we knew we were in Province.  That was followed by a wonderful pizza enjoyed with a wonderful French red wine.

The next day we walked to the oldest district, Panier Quarter on the north side of the harbor.  Le Panier consists of hilly streets that provide great photos for the vistas looking down through the stairways to the lower level of the port and across the harbor to Notre Dame de la Garde.  It is an area home to artists whose works are displayed on the sidewalk walls with bright street art. We also photographed Vielle Charité, a former almshouse, hospital, barracks, now housing various museums. Church Accuelle has a bell tower which announced to us it was lunchtime. Down at the harbor we stopped at Cuisine du Beurre for some fresh oysters and mussels.  The original owner was a well-known actor with memorabilia of his life during those days displayed inside on the second floor.  Next, we headed to the south side along the Quai de Rive Neuve to Fort Saint Nicholas hoping for a great view of Marseille harbor, but it was closed for renovation.  Just a little further up hill is Palais du Pharo which had the same view of the harbor and the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea, also a good view of Cathedrale de la Major on the south side that we had missed.  We walked some miles that hot day! There is always available nearby an outside café with a nice cold rosé.

  

Rue Canebière is the most famous street in Marseille.  We walked along the street looking for Maison Empereur, the oldest hardware store in France, which has everything you might need from the very old to the new. We were now in the district of Noailles, an area of narrow streets and alleys with a daily market selling North African fabrics, baskets, cookware, etc.  The restaurants were selling kebabs, flatbreads, couscous, and teas of that heritage.  We had no agenda so just kept walking and enjoying the sights and smells.  We passed the Palais des Artes and Couer Julien, a restful park with a fountain, a nice place to cool off on this hot day. After lunch we strolled along the Old Port of the harbor.  There is a pavilion creating a sheltered area for events.  The pavilion is a mirrored roof structure where pedestrians walking underneath can look up and see their reflection. It is strange to see yourself like that.  We also took a ride on Le Petit Train which took us around the harbor up to the top of a hill to Notre Dame de la Garde Basilica. From here you have a panoramic view of the city of Marseille, the islands and the sea.  It is dedicated to the sailors and fishermen, with many ship sculptures and paintings inside.

  

L’ISLE SUR LA SORGUE AND NEARBY VILLAGES

It’s time to take the train to L‘Isle sur la Sorge, but before going to the train station we walked to the harbor and watched the fishermen who have just arrived setting up and selling their catch of the day.  This is the best way to get fresh seafood for your table at home.

It is nice to be in our own apartment and to go around seeing people we met last year.  Our friend Tracy drove her car down from her home in Brittany (12.5 hours) for a visit with plans for us to venture out and visit the nearby villages. Roussillon is one of many “Most Beautiful Villages” especially known for the Ochre, a yellow to red soil which was used for dyeing fabrics and seen in the walls of the buildings.  This town is quite colorful and home to many artists and their galleries.  As you ascend the winding roads enjoy the panoramic views and the colors of the village. You can even see the white capped Mont Ventoux in the far distance. There are also restaurants having panoramic views while enjoying delightful lunches.

That afternoon we visited Goult another village perched on a hill.  This village also has winding streets and tree lined squares surrounded by cafés.  We didn’t have time to visit the churches, but we will return to this village another time.  We drove up a very narrow street to the Jerusalem Moulin (Mill) and photographed the surrounding areas with again awesome panoramic views.  Driving back to L’Isle sur la Sorgue we passed bright red-orange fields of poppies and purple irises growing alongside the roads.  It was a beautiful Provence springtime day!

Our next journey was passing around Avignon towards Nimes and Uzes.  We were on our way to visit the Pont du Gard Aqueduct.  This aqueduct has been listed as a UNESCO SITE.  The aqueduct was originally built in the first century to overcome the obstacle of the flooding of the Gardon River in order to bring water from the Uzes to Nimes, a Roman colony. We visited the museum nearby which traces the construction by using artifacts, exhibitions, and films.  There is also a restaurant attached.  Walking towards the aqueduct we passed a thousand-year-old tree, still thriving!  It is the highest known aqueduct in the Roman world. Standing on it you realize the marvel of the construction.  There are three levels with 6 arches on the first, 11 arches o the second level and on top there are 35 arches.  It has been written that it is the most visited ancient monument in France. We were glad we visited.

    

Our next day’s journey was in search of  the Abbaye de St. Hilaire, so we followed directions towards La Coste.  Ending up on a rutted dirt road that seemed to be a dead end we turned around and decided to visit Bonnieux instead, another one of the “Most Beautiful Villages in France”.   Bonnieux is an impressive hilltop village.  We walked up winding roads and up old stone stairways until we came upon a lovely restaurant, Le St. Andre.  We were just in time for a leisurely lunch.  With our energy replenished we walked up further to the old town, passing some beautiful homes.  The old church “Vielle Eglise” is at the top.  From there we photographed the panoramic vistas of La Coste, Mont Ventoux and the surrounding vineyards.  It was worth the climb.  Returning down the cobbled road we saw a wine store named Le Wine Club displaying in the window a bottle of a white Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Seeing that beckoned us to rest inside with a lovely glass of this fabulous wine.

 

Ménerbes became the next day’s destination. This is another one of the “Most Beautiful Villages in France”.  Ménerbes has attracted many artists and writers.  Peter Mayle lived here and after he wrote “A Year in Provence” the village attracted many visitors. Ménerbes is also perched on a hilltop with commanding views. Being later in the afternoon there were few people around.  We strolled the roads of this charming village admiring the beautiful homes, the old ancient walls of protection and the picturesque scenes below the ramparts. Leaving we noticed another sign for the Abbaye and decided to return another time for that visit.

We have been curious to find the source of the Sorgue River that encircles L’Isle Sur la Sorgue and the canals throughout our island.  So, we drove to Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. Vaucluse is translated from the Latin phrase Vallis Clausa which means closed valley. The source is the largest spring in France.  Jacques Cousteau dove it down to 80 meters in 1957.  There were other attempts to reach the bottom and finally in 1985 a robot reached the depth of 308 meters.  After passing under an aqueduct we arrived in time for lunch, as usual, and enjoyed another delicious meal at Fontaine des Glaces situated on the river.  Then we had the energy to walk toward the spring.  On the way we were hoping to stop into Le Musée d’Histoire, a museum dedicated to World II and telling the story of what life was like in Vaucluse during the occupation and the activity of the Resistance here.  Unfortunately, it was closed.  We kept walking along observing the river streaming over the rocks to our right.  When we reached the end Frank climbed down for a clearer view.  On the way back we visited the Paper Mill and were shown how paper used to be manufactured in Vaucluse. At one time there were 7 paper mills here all powered by water wheels.  We continued back to the center of the village enjoying the tranquility. Near to the Saint-Marie-Saint-Véran Church we noticed a statue of Saint Veranus.  Legend has it that he defeated the dragon that terrified the people by wrapping it in chains and dragging it away. We are looking forward to return to visit the museum of the Resistance and another museum called Le Musée Du Monde Souterrain.  This museum exhibits the abysm, the underground river and cave paintings.  This ended our wonderful adventures with Tracy.

We enjoyed our few weeks staying in our apartment and going out each day to discover more of our island.  Last time while we were here we didn’t visit any museums so that was on our list.  We visited Musée du Jouet et de la Poupée Ancienne, a museum of Antique Toys and Dolls dating from 1880-1920. It is a private collection created by Madame Huguette Jeanselme.  Some were even animated when wound up such as the carousel.  We are saving the Compredon Centre d’Art for next year now that we have found its location.  There are also a lot of music events that take place there.   We had been introduced to a couple who have an apartment across the road.  We also connected with friends we met last time.  Another day we walked up to Musee La Filaventure – Brun de Vian-Tiran.  This is a specialty museum showing the history of the weaving industry, especially the Brun de Vian-Tiran brand products.  There is a store in front with these beautiful woolen products.

  

To discover L’Isle sur Sorge from a different perspective we took La Petit Train.  During the 35–40-minute tour through the streets we learned about the cultural and industrial heritage of this village. Halfway, the train stopped at a beautiful area at the end of le Partage des eaux to enjoy the scenery. We had previously walked up this passage watching children during a kayak lesson, but only went partway and were glad we finally reached the end to see the restaurant Le Pescador and the park on the river.

STRASBOURG, FRANCE

It was now time for us to continue on our spring vacation to the next destination.  We took the local train to Avignon where we would then continue on to Strasbourg.  Avignon is always a good place to spend a night.  After a great dinner and a good night’s sleep we were ready the next morning to continue.  To get to Strasbourg we took the TVG to Lyon airport.  The NH Hotel is located across from the terminals and because Lyon, being the gastronomic capital of France, it was imperative we have lunch there and it did not disappoint us.  That afternoon we flew to Strasbourg in the northeast part of France on the border of Germany called Alsace.

Strasbourg over the years has changed ownership between Germany and France now a part of France .  You can see the German influence in the architecture with the half-timbered houses and in the food, such as pretzels.  Also, all the street names are in French with the German name just underneath.  We stayed at the Tandem Hotel, an eco-friendly boutique hotel across from the train station.  The location was ideal.  It was a 5-minute walk to the trains and a 10-minute walk to the center of Strasbourg.  There were wonderful restaurants nearby.  The hotel has a bar with bio-dynamic wines and a delicious breakfast.  You can also rent bicycles at the hotel.

We were ready to explore Strasbourg after reading the literature on the sights of the city and using the map from the hotel.  The historic center of Strasbourg is known as the Grande Ȋle (Large Island) as it is surrounded by the canal of the River Ill.  We crossed the canal and entered the Grande Ȋle.  Our first stop was to visit St. Pierre le Vieux.  It is both a Protestant and Catholic church built in the 12^th century, showing renaissance paintings and scenes of the life of St. Peter.  We continued on until we came to a large plaza, called Place Kléber, the central square of Strasbourg.  It is a large open square surrounded by stores and the length of one side is the L’Aubette.  This was built in the 18^th century, destroyed in 1870 and rebuilt in 1926, designed by three avant-garde artists. The lower floor is a modern art museum.  It once housed soldiers and there is a statue in the center of honoring General Jean-Baptiste Kléber and contains his remains. Our next stop was at Place Gutenberg.  In the center is a statue of Johannes Gutenberg with engravings of the history of the printing press around the base.  Also in the square is a pretty carousel.

We were headed then to Strasbourg Cathedral.  We passed an alley that beckoned us with the sight of an interesting church.  We came across a small square dominated by Eglise du Temple Neuf. Originally a Dominican church built in the 13^th century it was destroyed and rebuilt in the 20^th century.  It was quite impressive but also closed.  We backtracked and walked to the Strasbourg Cathedral and plaza.  Originally it was designated Our Lady of Strasbourg and can be seen from anywhere in the city.  Frank was quite impressed by the solid bronze doors.  Also towards the back is an astronomical clock.  The cathedral was finished being built in 1439 on top of an ancient Roman sanctuary. It began as Catholic and switched to Protestant and then back to Catholic, therefore there is a variety of  Romanesque and Gothic architectural styles. The cathedral dominates the square. There are also many surrounding outside cafés. The Tourist Office is also in the square where you can purchase tickets for museums, the Batorama boat ride and the Mini Train Tour. Opposite we saw the Palais Rohan.  This palace was built in the 18^th century and now houses three museums.  It started to rain and so we skipped this visit in search of a café to wait for the rain to pass.

  

We had one more area to visit and that was Petite France.  There are four canals here, some with locks. As we strolled along the canals, we watched the Batorama tourist boats pass through the locks. The half-timbered buildings along the canals were picturesque.  We stopped for lunch in Tanner’s Quarter. It is called the Tanner’s quarter because in the 16^th century it housed tanners and millers.  After lunch we strolled along the canals sightseeing and shopping, then stopped at one of the many peaceful outside cafés along the canal to enjoy the surroundings. The entrance to the city was guarded by four towers connected by covered bridges over the River Ill.  We walked over to the Vauban Dam and climbed the stairs for a panoramic view.  It was a relaxing afternoon in Petit France.  That night we ate dinner at Le Schnockelock for the Alsace specialty done the old-fashioned way, choucroute ( a dish prepared with sauerkraut, sausages, other meats and often potatoes), and savored with a glass of Riesling.  The restaurant had that old-fashioned ambiance. The food was delicious, and everyone seated next to us agreed that it was too much food, but we all had some good laughs about it.

 

COLMAR, FRANCE

Colmar is a fairy tale town just a short train ride from Strasbourg.  Next morning we rode the train and then walked a short distance to the center of town.  It was definitely a fairy tale town with timber-framed brightly colored buildings with a canal that runs through the center of town.  It has been said that it was the inspiration for the movie “Beauty and the Beast”.  We stopped in at the Visitor Center and took a map with a walking tour to follow.  One of the houses is decorated for the season, such as Valentine’s Day, Easter and Christmas.  Another  house we passed by had watering cans hanging from the windows and most houses have bright colored flower boxes.  We passed by Saint Martin Collegiate Church constructed in the 13^th century and covered with red and gold stones.  There are many museums in Colmar. We passed a courtyard that had a statue in front, this was the entrance to the museum dedicated to Frederic-August Bartholdi. He was the creator of the Statue of Liberty.  Further on was the Pfister House with its octagonal turret and wrap-around balcony.  Around each corner we discovered another “District”.  The “Tanner’s District” had buildings of the tanner’s houses with roofs that had several hooks used to dry hides.  The “Fishmonger’s District” along the Lauch River had the half-timbered houses of the boatmen and fishermen who put their traps in the river.  Following the Rue de la Poissonniere we reached “Little Venice”. Here the houses are painted in pink, yellow and blue. Winemakers, gardeners and boatmen lived here and transported their goods to town in flat-bottomed boats, similar to gondolas.  There are boat tours if you want to ride in one.  The Covered Market is on the other side of the river in a brick building where traders sell fresh quality foods. It was time for a late lunch, and we enjoyed a wonderful German beef stew at Wistub La Petite Venise.  From there we wandered along more meandering streets back to the train station. We almost missed the Schwendi fountain, designed by Bartholdi in 1898. It is very small and easy to miss. Lazare de Schwendi was a general under Maximilian II from 1564-1568 fighting the Turks in Hungary from where he would have brought the grape variety from Tokay. The statue was destroyed in 1940 and then rebuilt after the war.

The Alsatian Wine Route is located between the Vosges Mountains in France and the Black Forest in Germany.  It starts at Strasbourg and ends at Milhouse not far from Colmar, 170 km long with 70 wine growing villages with 51 Grand Crus. We took a full day tour from Viator.com which left in front of the Visitor Center in Strasbourg. Pauline was our guide driving her van and we were accompanied by a lovely couple from Bombay, India. As we were heading south Pauline explained the location of the wine route, it’s micro-climate producing great wines, mostly white wines with an occasional Pinot Noir, farming of vegetables, especially cabbage for Alsace Choucroute, and berries.  Our first stop was near Barr in Heiligenstein at the Klipfel Winery.  Here we got an initiation of the wines of Alsace.  The wines take on the name of the grape not the vineyard.  There are seven white varieties: Sylvaner, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Klevener.  Their wines consist  of Alsace Grand Crus and Crémants. Inside the Family House is the tasting room with a large wooden table set up for tasting with pretzels.  Also, there was a huge old wine press.  Our next visit was in Andlau to a biodynamic vineyard.  Here we were entertained by the wine maker.  He showed us his organic method of growing his vines.  He is lovingly called a “hippy and mad scientist” and we enjoyed his enthusiasm and tasting his wines.  He produces 3 Grand Crus, but also many types, including apple juice and a wine similar to grappa. Pauline drove through many small villages, such as Itterswiller where there is a flower competition seen throughout the town.  Further on she pointed out sighting a red heart or a bottle on the roof signified a home where a single woman or man lived, an earlier era dating app?  She also went on to explain that if a woman left a sugar cube on the windowsill and the stork took it during the night that meant she was going to have a baby.  We were on our way to Ribeauville to stop for lunch.  Alsace has both French and German influences in the foods and she suggested we might want to try Tarte Flambée (Flammekueche), similar to a flat bread pizza but with a layer of crème fraiche instead of a red sauce.  Frank and I wandered the village and stopped in at Le Giesberg a quaint little restaurant and ordered Tarte Flambée followed by apple strudel for dessert.   Walking back to our van we spotted a stork’s nest on top of one of the building’s roofs. The stork is a symbol seen throughout Alsace. Our third and last winery of the day was in Zellenberg at Jean Huttard winery.  This is a family that is committed to sustainable environment and ecological viticulture.  It was a more modern setting. Our wine tour was greatly enjoyed having visited three distinctly different wineries each with different presentations and seeing all the villages along the route. And especially learning about the wine route from our host Pauline with her little local stories about the area.